Senin, 11 April 2011

Duck Housing and Management

he Small Home Flock
In areas where poultry raising is allowed and space is available, a small flock of ducks can be kept in the yard of a household at a low cost. Except for a brooder, which is needed for the first week or so, the main facilities and equipment needed to get started are a simple structure, such as a partially-enclosed shed, inexpensive fencing, a feed hopper or trough made of wood and a simply constructed watering device. The shelter should be located on a high, well-drained area of the yard. Whenever available, sandy soil is preferable for the duck yard because it drains quickly after a rain. The earth floor of the sheltered area should be bedded with straw, shavings or similarly dry absorbent material. Low fencing (about 61cm) is satisfactory for Pekins, since they do not fly, but not for Muscovies, which are adept to becoming airborne. If predators are a problem at night, the open areas of the shed and pen may have to be covered with inexpensive netting or wire mesh.

Raising Ducks on Open Ponds
Ducks may be kept successfully on open ponds, provided a nearby dry sheltered area is available. Ducks kept on ponds may obtain part of their food from plant and animal life in and around the pond, but supplemental feeding will probably be necessary. In tropical areas it is common to combine duck raising on ponds with fish farming. Ponds are stocked with fish such as Tilapia which are raised for human food. Manure from the ducks provide nutrients for growth of animal and plant life which the fish consume. The number of ducks kept on ponds must be limited to prevent an over-supply of nutrients and overgrowth of plant life which will cause depletion of oxygen in the water and kill the fish. Usually both the ducks and fish are given supplemental feed, which on commercial duck/fish farms is often a nutritionally complete pelleted ration.
Herding Duck Management (see also Ducks for Herding)
In Indonesia, herded flocks under the care of a single herdsman usually range in size from 90 to 130. During the day, a flock of ducks, usually mature females, is allowed to search for food in harvested rice fields and other areas where food is plentiful. At night, the flock is returned to a confinement, usually a bamboo pen, where eggs are laid during the night. Eggs are collected and sold, or used for food by the herdsman's family. The major part of the diet of herded ducks consists of whole grains and snails, plus small amounts of insects, leaf material, crabs and frogs. It is the job of the herdsman to move the flock, as often as necessary, to areas where food is plentiful. Portable fencing and other equipment is moved with the flock to each new location. A grassy area with some protection, such as provided by trees, is selected as a base camp where the fencing is set up. Supplemental feed is given to herded ducks only when the food supply in the fields is inadequate.

Commercial duck production
A thorough discussion of modern commercial duck production is beyond the scope of this web page. More in depth sources of information can be found in Publications. Commercial duck housing is usually one of two types: total confinement and semi-confinement. Modern commercial total-confinement duck housing usually has clear-span-truss framing, and is well insulated and mechanically ventilated. Age groups are kept isolated, either in separate buildings or in separate rooms with solid partitions between them. Floor design is usually one of two types: all wire mesh; or a combination of litter and wire mesh with waterers located on the wire. Ventilation systems are usually the negative pressure type with adjustable, or automatically controlled air inlets and exhaust fans located along the side walls. Because waterfowl drink and excrete more water than land fowl, extra demand is placed on the ventilation and heating system to remove the extra moisture and maintain proper temperatures. The advice of an agricultural engineer, who is familiar with duck housing, is very helpful when designing buildings. When properly designed and managed, modern duck housing provides ducks a high degree of protection from the detrimental effects of extremes in weather and entry of duck diseases. The ability to exclude wild birds from buildings is alone a large factor in preventing the introduction and spread of diseases. In addition to allowing year-round production and marketing at an earlier age, benefits include improved feed conversion and more predictable, and usually better weight gain. Semi-confinement duck housing is similar to the above in many respects with the exception that ducks over 2-3 weeks of age are allowed outdoors during the day. Ducks over 4 weeks of age may spend much of their time outdoors with minimal use of shelter.
Feeders and feeding space
Most feeders used for other poultry, are satisfactory for ducks, provided sufficient room is allowed for the larger bill of ducks and their "shoveling" eating motion. If ducks are hand fed, simple trough feeders work fine. If feed hoppers are used, they should be constructed so that feed will slide down freely into the bottom of the hopper as feed is consumed. Providing an apron in front of the feeding area, for catching feed that is dropped or billed out, will reduce feed wastage. During their early stages of growth, ducklings eat frequently, much like chickens. As they grow older they are able to store increasing amounts of feed in their esophagus at each feeding, and thus need to eat less frequently. By about four weeks of age, Pekin ducks can easily consume 100 grams or more of pellets at a single feeding. It is important to provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of feeder space per duck for about the first 3 weeks. Afterwards this can be gradually reduced to about half this amount so long as there is no crowding at the feed hoppers. Developing breeders that are being fed an allotted amount of feed each day should be allowed plenty of feeding space so that all birds can eat at once, which requires about 4 inches (10 cm) of linear space per duck.
Waterers for ducks (see also Water)
Waterers designed for chickens and turkeys are usually satisfactory for ducks, as long as the size of the duck's bill is considered. Trough, can or jar-type waterers can be used so long as the drinking area is wide enough (at least 4 cm) for the duck to submerge its bill. The same requirement applies to automatic trough, cup or Plasson waterers. Nipple waterers, if properly adjusted for the duck's height, are also satisfactory. If waterers are located indoors where the floor is bedded with litter, waterers should be located on a wire-mesh screen to reduce wetting of the litter. In commercial duck houses it is usually advisable to construct a cement floor drain underneath the water screens. For starting and growing ducks, provide a minimum of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of linear watering space per duck. Increase this to 2 inches (5.0 cm) per duck for developing and laying breeders. If nipple waterers are used, provide 15 nipples per 100 ducks for starting and growing ducks and 20 nipples/100 ducks for developing and laying breeders. Starting ducklings should always have access to watering cans, jars or troughs until they have learned to drink from nipple waterers.


Ventilation
Duck houses or shelters for small flocks usually do not require mechanical ventilation as used in modern commercial duck buildings. However some ventilation is always necessary when ducks are kept in a house enclosed on all sides. Window openings, and ridge ventilation may provide adequate air exchange. If larger flocks are kept in totally enclosed houses, the use of ventilation fans may be necessary. Proper ventilation of commercial duck buildings requires the expertise of an agricultural engineer or someone with knowledge and experience in designing and ventilating poultry buildings. Modern duck buildings must be adequately insulated for ventilations systems to work properly. Ventilation systems for ducks should deliver a minimum of 0.2 cfm/lb duck weight at .05 inches (water gauge) static pressure and a maximum ventilation rate (when temperatures are above the desired point) of 0.8 cfm/lb duck weight at .02 inches static pressure.
Lighting
The length of the laying period of ducks can be increased considerably if supplemental lighting is provided. If supplemental light is not provided, egg production will be seasonal and dependent on changes in natural daylength. Adding artificial light to extend the daily light period to 14-17 hours, and preventing any decrease in day length, will provide adequate light stimulation for ducks to lay continuously for 7-12 months, depending upon their ability to lay, and other conditions. If ducks are confined to a building at night and allowed outdoors during the day (or if confined to non-lightproof housing), the usual practice is to turn artificial lights on at a set time before sunrise, off at a set time after sunrise, then on again before sunset and off after sunset, maintaining a constant light period (14 hours, for example) and a constant dark period (10 hours in this case) each day. Such a lighting regimen is usually implemented with the aid of electric time clocks that turn lights on and off at set times. A light intensity of about 10 lux (1 foot candle) at the duck's eye level is sufficient to stimulate adequate sexual response in both drakes and ducks. In practice, however, breeding and laying ducks are commonly lit to provide 20-30 lux at duck level. Artificial lighting is less important for growing ducks. Ducks are nocturnal, and can find feed and water in the dark. However artificial light is important the first few days to assist ducklings in getting started drinking and eating. Totally confined ducks being grown-out for marketing, as in commercial production, are usually provided some light every day. It is also beneficial to provide dim light by means of low wattage bulbs during dark periods to help prevent stampeding if the flock is disturbed and to discourage feather pecking. During the development period of breeder-layer ducks, it is desirable to avoid either increases or decreases in day-length as much as possible. A recent publication entitled Poultry Lighting by UK scientist Dr. Peter Lewis and Dr. Trevor Morris (see Publications on Ducks and Related Publications) reviews research demonstrating excellent laying performance of Pekin ducks given a constant light regimen of 17 hours/day throughout rearing and laying. It is recommended that this resource be consulted for more information on lighting ducks.

KANDANG

Kandang Box
Kandang box dapat dibuat dari berbagai bahan seperti kayu, bambu, papan, triplex, gardus, kawat ram dan sebagainya. Kandang box digunakan untuk anak itik umur 1 hari hingga 14 hari di mana pada masa ini itik membutuhkan tempat yang hangat serta nyaman.
Kontruksi kandang box adalah sebagai berikut :
a.  Kandang box dapat dibuat berbentuk empat persegi, bundar ataupun bujursangkar.
b. Ukuran kandang box dapat dibuat sesuai keinginan dan bahan yang ada. Adapun contoh ukuran    kandang dapat dibuat sebagai berikut : 1m x 2m, 1m x 1m, 1.5m x 1.5m atau 2m x 2m.
c. Tinggi kandang 1 meter dan kandang dapat dibuat bertingkat.
d. Dinding kandang diberi ventilasi, lantai kandang dibuat dari kawat ram atau bilah bambu.
e. Tempat makan dan minum dapat di letakan di luar ataupun di dalam kandang box
f.  Sumber panas diletakan di dalam kandang dan suhunya dapat diatur sesuai umur itik


Gambar : Kandang Box


 Kandang Ren
Kandang ren adalah tipe kandang tempat pembesaran ataupun pemeliharaan induk itik, kandang dapat dibuat bertingkat ataupun lantai tanah yang dialasi litter. Litter kandang dapat menggunakan jerami, sekam padi ataupun bahan lainnya sesuai ketersediaan bahan.  Ukuran kandang dapat disesuikan dengan kondisi  dan bahan setempat dengan memperhatikan kepadatan ruang kandang dan jumlah itik yang dipelihara.
ren.jpgKandang ren terbagi dalam dua bagian yaitu tempat berteduh, beristirahat ataupun sebagai tempat bertelur untuk induk petelur serta ren sebagai tempat bermain ataupun sebagai tempat makan dan minum ternak itik. Halaman kandang ren dapat pula dibuat kolam, khusus untuk itik petelur tetas di mana proses perkawinan antara itik jantan dan betina akan lebih maksimal sehingga kebutuhan telur tetas lebih terjamin.

Gambar : Kandang Ren

Kandang Postal
Kandang postal adalah seperti gambar di bawah ini. Konstruksi kandang postal dengan dinding dari belahan-belahan bambu ataupun kawat ram ditujukan untuk sistem pemeliharan itik secara intensif.

 Gambar : Kandang Postal


Kandang Batere
Kandang batere untuk ternak itik adalah kandang yang dibuat untuk sistem pemeliharaan intensif di mana setiap ruang kandang ditempati satu ekor itik. Dengan menggunakan kandang  ini, peternak dapat mengawasi perkembangan setiap ternak baik produksi, kesehatan, pakan dan lain sebagainya.
Sanitasi Kandang
Keberhasilan dalam usaha ternak itik tidak lepas dari keadaan kandang yang bersih dan bebas dari berbagai sumber penyakit. Untuk mengantisipasi hal tersebut maka perlu dilakukan program sanitasi yang meliputi pembersihan kandang dari kotoran ternak serta mencucihamakan (desinfektan) kandang dengan obat-obatan pembasmi kuman.
Cara melakukan desinfektan :
1. Obat pembunuh kuman dilarutkan dengan dosis 10 ml/1 liter air
2. Semprotkan campuran tersebut ke seluruh ruang kandang
3. Selanjutnya kandang dibiarkan selama seminggu
Apabila dianggap perlu, lakukan fumigasi (pengasapan) .

PETERNAK ITIK

Sebelum seorang peternak memulai usahanya, harus menyiapkan diri, terutama dalam hal pemahaman tentang pancausaha beternak yaitu:
(1). Perkandangan
(2). Bibit Unggul
(3). Pemeliharaan
(4). Pemeliharaan Kandang

KANDANG

Penyiapan Sarana dan Peralatan Kandang
1. Persyaratan temperatur kandang ± 39 ° C.
2. Kelembaban kandang berkisar antara 60-65%
3. Penerangan kandang diberikan untuk memudahkan pengaturan kandang agar tata kandang sesuai dengan fungsi bagian-bagian kandang
4. Model kandang ada 3 (tiga) jenis yaitu:
1. kandang untuk anak itik (DOD) oada masa stater bisa disebut juga kandang box, dengan ukuran 1 m atau 2 m mampu menampung 50 ekor DOD
2. kandang Brower (untuk itik remaja) disebut model kandang Ren/kandang kelompok dengan ukuran 16-100 ekor perkelompok
3. kandang layar ( untuk itik masa bertelur) modelnya bisa berupa kandang baterei (satu atau dua ekor dalam satu kotak) bisa juga berupa kandang lokasi
(kelompok) dengan ukuran setiap meter persegi 4-5 ekor itik dewasa (masa bertelur atau untuk 30 ekor itik dewasa dengan ukuran kandang 3 x 2 meter).
5.  Kondisi kandang dan perlengkapannya
Kondisi kandang tidak harus dari bahan yang mahal tetapi cukup sederhana asal tahan lama (kuat). Untuk perlengkapannya berupa tempat makan, tempat minum dan mungkin perelengkapan tambahan lain yang bermaksud positif dalam managemen

 PEMBIBITAN

Ternak itik yang dipelihara harus benar-benar merupakan ternak unggul yang telah diuji keunggulannya dalam memproduksi hasil ternak yang diharapkan.
1. Pemilihan bibit dan calon induk
Pemilihan bibit ada 3 ( tiga) cara untuk memperoleh bibit itik yang baik adalah sebagai berikut :
1.  membeli telur tetas dari induk itik yang dijamin keunggulannya
2.  memelihara induk itik yaitu pejantan + betina itik unggul untuk mendapatkan telur tetas kemudian meletakannya pada mentok, ayam atau mesin tetas
3.  membeli DOD (Day Old Duck) dari pembibitan yang sudah dikenal mutunya maupun yang telah mendapat rekomendasi dari dinas peternakan setempat.Ciri DOD yang baik adalah tidak cacat (tidak sakit) dengan warna bulu kuning mengkilap.
2. Perawatan bibit dan calon induk
    1. Perawatan Bibit
Bibit (DOD) yang baru saja tiba dari pembibitan, hendaknya ditangani secara teknis agar tidak salah rawat. Adapun penanganannya sebagai berikut: bibit diterima dan ditempatkan pada kandang brooder (indukan) yang telah dipersiapkan sebelumnya. Dan hal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan dalam brooder adalah temperatur brooder diusahakan yang anak itik tersebar secara merata, kapasitas kandang brooder (box) untuk 1 m² mampu menampung 50 ekor DOD, tempat pakan dan tempat minum sesuai dengan ketentuan yaitu jenis pakan itik fase stater dan minumannya perlu ditambah vitamin/mineral.

Gambar : DOD yang sehat

    2. Perawatan calon Induk
Calon induk itik ada dua macam yaitu induk untuk produksi telur konsumsi dan induk untuk produksi telur tetas. Perawatan keduanya sama saja, perbedaannya hanya pada induk untuk produksi telur tetas harus ada pejantan dengan perbandingan
1 jantan untuk 5 – 6 ekor betina.


3. Reproduksi dan Perkawinan
Reproduksi atau perkembangbiakan dimaksudkan untuk mendapatkan telur tetas yang fertil/terbuahi dengan baik oleh itik jantan. Sedangkan sistem perkawinan dikenal ada dua macam yaitu itik hand mating/pakan itik yang dibuat oleh manusia dan nature mating (perkawinan itik secara alami).

PEMELIHARAAN

1. Sanitasi dan Tindakan Preventif
Sanitasi kandang mutlak diperlukan dalam pemeliharaan itik dan tindakan preventif (pencegahan penyakit) perlu diperhatikan sejak dini untuk mewaspadai timbulnya penyakit.
2. Pengontrol Penyakit
Dilakukan setiap saat dan secara hati-hati serta menyeluruh. Cacat dan tangani secara serius bila ada tanda-tanda kurang sehat pada itik.
3. Pemberian Pakan
Pemberian pakan itik tersebut dalam tiga fase, yaitu fase stater (umur 0–8 minggu), fase grower (umur 8–18 minggu) dan fase layar (umur 18–27 minggu). Pakan ketiga fase tersebut berupa pakan jadi dari pabrik (secara praktisnya) dengan kode masing-masing fase.

Cara memberi pakan tersebut terbagi dalam empat kelompok yaitu:
1. umur 0-16 hari diberikan pada tempat pakan datar (tray feeder)
2. umur 16-21 hari diberikan dengan tray feeder dan sebaran dilantai
3. umur 21 hari samapai 18 minggu disebar dilantai.
4. umur 18 minggu–72 minggu, ada dua cara yaitu 7 hari pertama secara pakan peralihan dengan memperhatikan permulaan produksi bertelur sampai produksi mencapai 5%. Setelah itu pemberian pakan itik secara
ad libitum (terus menerus). Dalam hal pakan itik secara ad libitum, untuk menghemat pakan biaya baik tempat ransum sendiri yang biasa diranum dari bahan-bahan seperti jagung, bekatul, tepung ikan, tepung tulang, bungkil feed suplemen.
Pemberian minuman itik, berdasarkan pada umur itik juga yaitu :
1. umur 0-7 hari, untuk 3 hari pertama iar minum ditambah vitamin dan mineral, tempatnya asam seperti untuk anak ayam.
2. umur 7-28 hari, tempat minum dipinggir kandang dan air minum diberikan secara ad libitum (terus menerus)
3. umur 28 hari-afkir, tempat minum berupa empat persegi panjang dengan ukuran 2 m x 15 cm dan tingginya 10 cm untuk 200-300 ekor. Tiap hari dibersihkan.

 PEMELIHARAAN KANDANG

Kandang hendaknya selalu dijaga kebersihannya dan daya gunanya agar produksi tidak terpengaruh dari kondisi kandang yang ada.